Our guide Juan Alberto Aguilar Gomez and his daughter Andy met us at our hotel in Sábalos the following misty morning. They live in El Castillo, ten miles down river, and had come up in Juan’s panga, pulling one of their three-seater fiberglass canoes behind. For the remainder of our river journey – five days and ninety-eight miles to go – instead of staying in their rented double sea kayak, Eve and JoAnne would be paddling this canoe down river, with a guide in the third seat at the stern. John and I would continue in our sea kayaks. Juan’s …