Dear Reader, Today was a gorgeous day of paddling! When I awoke in the night, the marsh was alive with the chattering ruckus of seabirds! I had never heard such a midnight chorus of seabirds before. Who was carrying on and why? Surely it wasn’t a way to stay warm? The morning’s low temperature of 39 was five degrees warmer than it has been recently, and thus felt downright balmy. And when daylight arrived the seas lay flat. Such a glorious site! Blue above and blue below, with just a smudgy pencil line of land in the horizon. We paddled …